Brilliantly painted wall with colorful geraniums, this small spot in Oprtalj is well cared for. But no one was around using the space. True, it was the middle of the day, the tiny market had closed (after we had gotten our picnic fixings of bread, cheese, and the Istrian version of prosciutto), and all sensible people would have been taking a well-deserved mid-day siesta.

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