At the campground of Stoja near Pula on the Istrian peninsula of Croatia, Mussolini left his modernist mark. Between the world wars, Istria became Italy once again after about 200 years of Austro-Hungarian domination. During his reign, Mussolini built a bath house on the Stoja shore, a hideous concrete monstrosity. Now decaying and unused, it is a canvas for graffitists. But rust is also playing a very artistic part in its decay.

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